New book ‘American Tacos’ probes a dish’s evolution across borders

Rio Rancho, N.M. • You can eat one with carne asada and corn tortillas in East Los Angeles, or one with flour and pit-grilled pork known as al pastor in Dallas. Travelers can pick a few up outside of Berlin’s Schonefeld Airport before boarding a flight, or grab one with albondigas and collard greens in Memphis, Tenn.In each place, you can taste the social and global evolution of the taco, according to José R. Ralat.Some tacos incorporate the influence of Asian or Jewish cuisine