Nyum Bai's Dreamy Cambodian Cooking Is a Hit

Restaurants are often defined by their view: There are waterfront restaurants and rooftop bars and sidewalk cafes. But sitting on a pastel-pink stool one day in Oakland's Fruitvale neighborhood, gazing out through a wall of windows , I didn't see sailboats or city lights or women walking by wearing wide-legged Everlane pants.