The Soba at Kamonegi Is Just So Good

Chef Mutsuko Soma's buckwheat noodles and tempura are top-notch at this Wallingford restaurant.by Naomi Tomky"Ramen is easy," says chef Mutsuko Soma, dismissively, while talking about the relative difficulties of making soba, the buckwheat-based noodles she specializes in at her Wallingford restaurant, Kamonegi.Soba and tempura form the backbone of Kamonegi's menu, which Soma keeps small enough to update at the slightest whisper of a season change or even just her own whim. Some days, she'll add