Moonlight Cafe Makes the City's Best Pho. And Yes, It's Vegetarian.

In defense of the fake-meat pho at Moonlight Cafe in the Central District.by Lester BlackI don't eat meat, yet every time a server emerges from the kitchen at Moonlight Cafe, walking underneath long strips of yellow and pink neon lights that look like they're straight from the 1990s, I hope that the bowl of meaty pho on their tray is mine.The pho's rice noodles are covered in chunks of meat shaped into little balls, triangles, and half-moons that look like sliced chicken thighs. A crispy hunk of