Lark's Understated Greatness

In Its Expanded New Location on Capitol Hill, Lark Continues Its Quiet Reverence for the Pacific Northwestby Angela GarbesWhen chef John Sundstrom and partners J.M. Enos and Kelly Ronan opened their Capitol Hill restaurant Lark in 2003, it was a radical move. At the time, its location—a worn-down 1930s building located on a stretch of 12th Avenue just south of Madison—was, in Sundstrom's words, "a little off the beaten path."Then there was the food. Rather than the familiar categorie