A Cut Above

Meaty finger waves.by Meg van HuygenIt’s prep shift at Hamdi, and the room smells like fire. Winter sunlight filters in, and there’s a faint hum of spices in the charred air. Chef Berk Güldal is giving a private tutorial on making Turkish Adana-style kebap—aka kebab—a meticulous, laborious two-day process that plumps up these peppery lamb skewers.
Hand-mincing kebap is considered an art form in Southwest Asia, but this time-consuming process is being practiced less a