Review | ‘The Big Cheese’

American cheesemongers have a chip on their shoulders. It’s not entirely unwarranted. American cheese (the category) is fairly young, all things considered, gaining traction only in the 1970s, and is often conflated with the giant bricks of yellowish-orange American cheese (the product) found in grocery stores across the country. “The Big Cheese,” a new documentary from director Sara Joe Wolansky (a former video producer for “The New Yorker”), looks to course-