Southern classics and Sunday rituals, redefined at Butterfunk

After the rush at Butterfunk on a recent Gospel Sunday. Photo: Queen Esther
On an especially cold Sunday afternoon in Windsor Terrace, a long line of neighborhood regulars and newcomers stood in line good naturedly until the door at the soul food restaurant Butterfunk swung open at 5:30 pm like clockwork. It was tacitly understood that because reservations were taken only for parties of six or more, everyone would simply wait for as long as it took, and with good reason: after several