Say Cheese (and Wine) at denizen in Williamsburg

John Poiarkoff pulled up roots at both The Pines and Willow this past year, but thankfully, it was merely to transplant himself elsewhere in Brooklyn. Newly situated in Williamsburg, the chef has branched out with a 53-seater called denizen—which, contrasting with the abstract concepts of his previous restaurants, possesses a single, highly specific through line: cheese.
Working in concert with fromager Emily Lindh (who procures both local and imported product such as spruce-wrapped, soft-