Travel: The personal touch is key to experiencing Cuba

Shhh! Cuba may have gotten its first president not named Castro in 60 years on April 19, but don’t tell the government, the next revolution is underway.
Perhaps nowhere is this more clear than in the town of Viñales. Nestled underneath the undulating cliffs that form a mountain round in profile sits a valley of fertile, red soil. Farmers in the western province of Pinar del Río swear the tobacco and coffee grown there is the best in all the world. I can’t argue.
Bu