The Taste: The Ahi moment

“Tuna is boring!”  So sayeth chef Paul Gstrein, the executive chef of Bayside since its inception in 1999.  Mind you, this pronouncement is boldly made before the presentation and tasting of his own Pepper Crusted Ahi.
Gstrein, an Austrian by way of Northern Italy, has his own interpretation of what defines the elusive and now perhaps quickly aging “New American” genre of cuisine. From Gstrein’s perspective, the style and sensibility of “New American