Review: Even during a crisis, Taco María shines bright

Just before the lockdown order came in March, I dined again at Taco María in Costa Mesa. I ate poppyseed tostadas topped with Dungeness crab. They were exquisite. I enjoyed lamb birria infused with star anise and coffee. Chef Carlos Salgado had recently revamped the dining room with new banquettes that he built himself. The service was more polished than ever before, the wine pairings with each course even more sophisticated than I remembered from all previous visits. 
Three days lat