Review: After 15 years, Brussels Bistro finally grows up

I’ve never enjoyed Brussels Bistro in Laguna Beach. The subterranean Belgium-themed restaurant that opened 15 years ago on Forest Avenue has always felt to me to be more of basement dive bar or nightclub than a serious restaurant. 
Sure, the mussels were good. The pork shank, too. But the restaurant always had that moldy spilled beer smell that goes along with a dank basement dive bar. So in February when I heard Brussels Bistro had opened a new location on Avenida del Mar in San Clem