Recipe: Cauliflower gratin elevates the vegetable to regal richness

Even in childhood attempts at cooking, I found hot vegetables teamed with melted cheese an irresistible combination. At 8, I received mixed reviews from my family when I slathered perfectly innocent buds of hot-blanched broccoli with warm processed cheese-from-a-jar. The cheese formed an eerie orange mask over the florets, creating a smooth, porcelain-like finish that filled every nook and cranny.
It was one of my first tries at creating drama on a plate. I loved it. I tried it with everything f