How ‘The Endless Summer’ ended for one surfer in 1966

[Editor’s note: This essay first appeared in the “Chapters of Our Lives” issue of PREMIUM Magazine, which featured personal storytelling.]
South Orange County, 1966
“They’re showing that surf film,” says Chris, my high school boyfriend. “Tonight. Back of the Coast Liquor. Can you come?”
“I’ll meet you in the driveway” is my reply.
I pull on a beach shift, puka shell necklace, and brush out my sun-streaked hair.
“Going out wi