Four fine dining pioneers

If you’d accidentally stumbled into the banquet room of Zov’s Bistro one recent afternoon, you’d think it was a rehearsal for some kind of farce. Things looked like they might get out of hand – and for good reason. They always do, or almost do, when Antonello’s Antonio Cagnolo and Bruno Serato of The White House get together, egging each other on like the Marx Brothers about to create pandemonium. They drew Zov Karamardian to the edge of her regal deportment as