Finding comfort in fire-ravaged wine county

As usual chef Kyle Connaughton arrived to open his kitchen at the Single Thread Restaurant and Inn in Healdsburg, California, just like he did every Monday morning.
Except, this Monday morning on Oct. 9, 2017, was anything but usual.
The Tubbs fire had erupted at about a quarter to 10 the night before, 15 miles southeast of Healdsburg just beyond the Mayacamas mountain range in Calistoga.
Smoke hung thick in the air. A blizzard of ash swirled and fell with the 50-mile-an-hour wind gusts. The lev