29-09-2017 20:20 via ocregister.com

Corky Carroll: ‘Take Every Wave’ captures fearless, big wave surfer Laird Hamilton

When I heard the title of the new movie, “Take Every Wave,” I was thinking it sounded like something very aggressive. Like there is this dude that I surf with that we call “every wave Dave” because he takes every wave.
When I saw that this movie is about the life of Laird Hamilton, I realized that I was correct. Not too many more aggressive surfers than Hamilton, but in this case I do not mean it in a negative fashion.
Hamilton is one of a kind, the absolute best big wave
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