Corky Carroll: How to keep surfing into the golden years

People always ask me how I am able to keep surfing pretty much every day at the ripe young age of 72.
I have touched upon this subject here before, but mostly in terms of eating and exercise and all that. Today, I would like to talk more about attitude and degree of stoke as key factors in keeping yourself paddling out day after day and year after year.
The fact is that many people just wear out and lose the stoke to keep surfing. There are all kinds of reasons for this: work, family, health, in