Best thing I ate: What’s a great Italian restaurant doing serving a burger?

I’m craving a wood-fired pizza and a bottle of aglianico wine, so I go to Brick in San Clemente (No. 7 on last year’s 75 Best Places to Eat). But as I’m looking at this Italian restaurant’s menu, I notice something odd: a burger.
That’s new, I think. It’s also weird to see here.
“What’s up with the burger?” I ask the waitress.
“Oh,” she says with a laugh. “That’s the chef’s new baby. He’s planning to open a