Best thing I ate: Different chef, same great cappellacci at Oliver’s Osteria

When I first wrote about Oliver’s Osteria last year, I wrote of a talented young chef, Ferdinando Bernardi, who had just arrived from Italy to work for restaurateur Erik De Marchi, who himself had emigrated from Italy to work as chef in Los Angeles years ago. 
Long story short: Bernardi couldn’t stay. It turns out that work visas for chefs are harder to come by these days than they used to be. Bernardi went back to Italy a few weeks after my initial review. 
But remember wh