Wine: why volcanic wines may blow your mind

There are more wines grown in volcanic soils than you may imagineThere’s not much innovation in wine publishing. Having judged two awards in the last 12 months (the Louis Roederer and Andre Simon), I get the impression that publishers think wine-lovers want only beginners’ guides and outsize volumes on the world’s poshest wine regions. So credit to Jacqui Small for publishing our Andre Simon drink book winner, the refreshingly original Volcanic Wines, by Canadian sommelier John