Slow-cooked leek pappardelle with crispy white beans and lemon

This recipe sings in its simplicity and depth of flavour. Plus: five golden rules for cooking pasta There is no food I can evangelise about more than pasta. The toothsome chew, a silky sauce that hugs each piece … It cooks in little more than 10 minutes, it’s an unrivalled vehicle for flavour and it sates the appetite whatever the season (but most excellently as the months grow colder).As a young chef, I spent a lot of time in a kitchen that championed Italian cuisine, so my cooking