Rembrandt’s Holland: exploring Amsterdam and Leiden

It is 350 years since the artist’s death but visiting these two Dutch cities you can still feel the echoes of his work, and follow in his footstepsRembrandt stares out at me all around. To one side he is young, eyes shaded beneath tousled hair, to the other he’s wrinkled, gummy and turbaned, and in between variously smiling, frowning, astonished, or confident beneath a wide-brimmed hat at a rakish angle. It’s a perfect start to my journey in search of the greatest of Dutch mast