Rachel Roddy’s four bean-based recipes suitable for vegans | A kitchen in Rome

Italians have a way with beans that puts them at the heart of everyday food, often in a form that’s incidentally vegan. Here borlotti reach a roast chestnut-like softness alongside potato, tomato and herbsFriday nights at Pizzeria Remo run like boisterous clockwork. Whether you’ve been going there all your life, or it is your first visit, the routine is always the same. You put your name and number on a list, then stand in line until you’re called, the disorderly queue spilling