Pinot grigio or gris – what’s in a name? | David Williams

In its Italian style, it has a bland reputation, but from Germany to the US, this grape is used to make fragrant white winesJosten & Klein Schiefer Grauburgunder, Mittelrhein, Germany 2018 (from £21, vinoteca.co.uk; handford.net; drinkmonger.com) It’s funny to think that, just a few years back, German producers would have thought twice about using the word ‘grauburgunder’ on their labels in the UK. In the 2000s and early 2010s, German wine was still suffering from its