Nigel Slater’s perfect Christmas recipes

Trout tartare, turkey, pumpkin, quince pies, dishes that balance old flavours and fresh ideas for the year’s most anticipated feastSome of the rituals of Christmas are, for me, unshakable. The tree with its skeins of ivy and hand-painted decorations, the Kilner jars of marsala-marinated figs and apricots in the cupboard, the ribbon-decked gifts for friends and loved ones and, of course, The Feast. There must be mistletoe hanging from the doorway and holly in the hall, but I do believe Chri