Nigel Slater’s new recipes for Easter

Catalan bubble and squeak, chicken, trout and lemon swiss roll are all on the menu for the holidayEaster arrives and there is a definite change of step in this kitchen. The mood lightens, flavours are more gentle and the cooking becomes relaxed. Instead of a chicken stew thick with beans and herbs, the bird is simply roasted with tarragon and young potatoes barely bigger than a blackbird’s egg; the fish pies that have bolstered us all winter are replaced by pan-fried trout with a light, sh