How to eat: porridge

This month, How to Eat is wading into the quagmire that is porridge. Must the oats be pinhead? Is a wooden bowl essential? And are bacon, eggs and cacao nibs really acceptable toppings? Porridge is a subject about which seemingly every detail is mired in controversy. Take, for instance, its origin myth. Robert Burns may have hymned “the halesome parritch, chief o’ Scotia’s food” and George Orwell, sarcastically, called it Scotland’s gift to the world. But porridge i