How to eat: paté

This month, with Christmas nearly here, How To Eat is ordering the paté. But will it be smoked mackerel or duck? Served with toast or crackers? And does anyone really want a watercress garnish rather than cornichon?Contemporary Britain is weirdly ambivalent about paté. It is a restaurant staple and a Christmas favourite, yet the subject of this month’s How To Eat has a distinct whiff of naff 1970s dinner parties about it. It is unfashionably rich and heavy, a hangover from a