How to eat: green salad

This month, How to Eat is enjoying seasonal leaves. Is this dish a sad, drab penance or a star to be celebrated? And is it ever acceptable to eat with a cheesy pasta bake?Far be it from How to Eat to accuse others of manufactured outrage (a certain comic exaggeration is grist to this column’s peppermill). But clicking through the Guardian archives as research on this month’s subject – the not-so-humble green salad – even HTE was shocked by Tim Hayward’s tirade again