How to cook the perfect roasted cauliflower

The once-unfancied brassica has usurped kale as the hipster vegetable of choice. No wonder: it is endlessly versatile and makes a great centrepieceVegetables go in and out of fashion, just like hemlines. (They have always done so among those wealthy enough to have the luxury of choice, so you can pipe down about the last days of Rome at the back.) Take kale, a peasanty cabbage once so despised that the great Jane Grigson declined even to mention it in her otherwise exhaustive Vegetable Book. Ear