How to cook the perfect miso ramen

It would take a lifetime to address all the possible variations of this Japanese classic. But this version from chilly northern Hokkaido is my favouriteLess a fast food than a national obsession, ramen inspires levels of devotion in its millions of fans that can seem puzzling to anyone who has never had the – considerable – pleasure. Yet one ridiculously rich, intensely savoury and scalding slurp is enough to explain why this simple noodle soup is fast becoming a global cult. Though