Coconut Tree, Cheltenham: ‘laid-back and on point’ – restaurant review

Cheap and full of charm, the Coconut Tree captures the vivid flavour of Sri LankaThe Coconut Tree, 59 St Paul’s Road, Cheltenham GL50 4JA (01242 465 758). Also in Bristol and Oxford. Dishes £2.50-£8; wines from £17Eating well is an expression of normality. When we’re not in crisis, we eat well. When we’re not at war, we eat well. It’s also a way of reclaiming normality: of refusing to let the darkness win. It’s why I went to the Coconut Tree in Che