Where the real Rudolph lives: reindeer herding with the Sami people in Sweden’s wild west

In the snowy mountains of Grövelsjön, visitors can get a rare glimpse into alittle-known traditional way of life – and sleep in a tipi under the starsOn the summit of a snow-covered hill, two men sit on a patch of lichen, their backs against their snowmobiles. They are wearing thick padded clothing and hats with ear covers. One is scanning the valley with binoculars, the other is checking their drone. “We’ve got a speaker on it to play various calls. Thermal imaging h