Mark Ritson: Ever heard the one about the Singapore noodle salesman…?

Chan Hon Meng is a busy man. He rises early each morning and spends the first five hours of the day preparing his rice, pork and chicken. Then, for the next 10 hours, he cooks and serves this food at his tiny food stall in Singapore.
It is a routine that Chan has become accustomed to. A Malaysian by birth, he moved to Singapore in the 1980s to become a cook. He learned his culinary skills from a Cantonese chef, so in 2009 when the opportunity arose to open his own food stall, he named it H