Drink: when you’re serving fish, white wine isn’t always the answer

Perceived wisdom is that you serve white wine with fish come what may. But it ain’t always necessarily soOne of the tricky things about picking a wine to go with food is that it’s not much help thinking only about the main ingredient. How it’s cooked will often have a much bigger bearing on your final choice.Take salmon, for instance, the subject of Yotam’s column this week. You’d want a different wine if you were cooking the fish en croute or with a creamy sauce (a chardonnay, I’d s