Cream teas at dawn: inside the war for the National Trust

One of the UK’s most beloved organisations is under siege over its efforts to reckon with Britain’s slave-owning history. Who will win the battle for its soul?One by one, they tackle the steeply winding path to Penrhyn Castle, pausing halfway to admire the view over a sparkling blue sea. Extended families grapple with pushchairs and picnic cool boxes; there are dapper older gentlemen in panama hats, and panting labradors. A blackboard at the entrance advertises traditional games ever