Fay Maschler reviews Core by Clare Smyth: 'You don’t know what you’ve got ’til it’s gone'

OK, three stars from me are not the same thing as three stars from the Michelin Guide.Clare Smyth MBE not only held and retained the three Michelin stars originally awarded to Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in 2001, but in the four years before she left Royal Hospital Road in 2016 she had the title chef-patron.In premises where Prue Leith OBE GBBO opened her eponymous restaurant in 1969, when Notting Hill Gate was a no-go rather than a go-to area, Smyth is now doing her own thing.