Terroir, natural wines and indie producers: how booze has changed since 2001

Since the first issue of Observer Food Monthly in 2001, the world of wine has altered radicallyOFM began publishing in what now feels like a decisively different era for wine. It was a time when a very particular style of winemaking was approaching its peak – a style that, with hindsight, seems very much in keeping with the credit-fuelled pre-2008 economic boom: big, brash, loud, crafted from a limited set of well-known grape varieties in expensive, toasty French oak barrels.This was a sty