Soho seems just a handful of theatre and restaurant closures away from becoming a wasteland | Grace Dent on restaurants

‘After 104 days of staring into my fridge, the act of being offered a bread basket in an actual restaurant felt magical’If I were to begin anywhere, it had to be Brasserie Zédel. If I could do Zédel, I could face the world. It has the largest dining room I know, just off Piccadilly Circus in London, and I’d booked for 1pm on what the media was waggishly calling “Super Saturday”. If anyone could sprinkle an air of jocundity over all this havoc, and keep