Köd, London W1: ‘A place for people who'd find an Angus Steakhouse wilfully experimental’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

The oddest restaurant I’ve eaten in all yearKöd (pronounced “cud” in Danish), tucked down St Anne’s Court off Dean Street in Soho, is a dark, cavernous Danish steak restaurant with the odd flash of neon faux glamour. In fact, it reminds me of nothing so much as a Wednesday goth night at a club called Ritzy’s in 1987; it’s also the oddest place I’ve eaten in all year.Köd arrived in London in 2023, over in Liverpool Street, and marketed itself as