Hidden River Cafe, Longtown, Cumbria: ‘No wonder my friends were so excited’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

‘Off the beaten track and in the middle of nowhere: perfect’On my way to Hidden River Cafe, which I’d booked for my birthday breakfast, I was reminded that when a Cumbrian warns you that somewhere’s “a bit off the beaten track and in the middle of nowhere”, you should take them seriously. They really mean it.And Hidden River Cafe is indeed hiding, albeit in my favourite part of Cumbria – the forgotten, untouched bit that visitors tend to ignore in their