Bar des Prés, London W1: ‘The £8 vanilla-flavoured mash reawakened my inner witch’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

I’ve done a lot of smiling graciously, but being relentlessly supportive of restaurants couldn’t last for everAlthough my restaurant columns have taken on an increasingly taut, Pollyanna-ish “I’m just glad to be out of the house” tone over the past three months, I think Bar des Prés in Mayfair has finally broken me. It was somewhere between the vanilla-flavoured mashed potato and the moment when I realised French celebrity chef Cyril Lignac was not, in fact,