Time to be shellfish: why the UK should go back to feasting on oysters and mussels

Popular in Victorian times, they are sustainable, a good source of protein and brilliant for biodiversity, say those championing the bivalvesA splash of white wine, a handful of basil leaves and a few minutes preparation are all it takes to transform mussels that 24 hours ago were filtering seawater off the south Devon coast, into a delicious starter.At the training kitchen in London’s oldest fish market, Billingsgate, in Poplar, we learn that fresh mussels require two vital preparation st