Seaweed, salt and soil: how ‘terroir’ cooking put local flavour on the plate

Chef Stephen Harris once described the Sportsman as a ‘grotty boozer by the sea’. Last week it was voted restaurant of the year. Harris reveals how the use of local produce has transformed gastronomyRewind a few years and the Sportsman pub’s greatest claim to fame was the fact that it stood next to the only place in the second world war where British troops exchanged fire with German forces on English soil.On an unprepossessing strip of marshland hugging the Thames estuary in n