On the waterfront: Lisbon's riverside regeneration

Boyd Tonkin finds great buildings, a bold new art gallery and custard pies to die for in Portugal’s capitalEveryone in Lisbon says that, since Portugal’s great age of exploration, the city has looked far out to sea. It took a hand-written list of pratos de dia outside a little restaurant on the Rua das Janelas Verdes – Street of Green Shutters – to add spice to that truism for me. Today’s specials? “Tandoori chicken €6.50, pork saag €6.50, chicken da