Dining Out: Top marks for design at Holy Roller while food leaves room for improvement

There was a time, not so long ago, when Edmonton was a relative bargain place to dine on the continent with a surprising variety of worthy culinary and potable options on offer for not much more than a song. Savvy travellers from other locales would often remark favourably on this Canadian anomaly, especially those who hit River City after pricier stops in Vancouver and Calgary.
The one aspect the city lacked then was the design sense common to those and other larger, if comparable, centres. Bac