Dining Out: Food critic got religion at Vaticano Cucina

It was a nondescript, windy spring day here in dusty, blown-garbage-baggy River City.
But the timing and planets alignment seemed right. So right.
When and how and with whom should a relative pagan visit a new restaurant with the sheer courage (divine right?) to call itself Vaticano Cucina?
Especially when said resto is located nowhere near a house of worship (absenting churches of consumerism), but sandwiched between Gateway Boulevard and Calgary Trail in the old, unlamented Koutouki South loca