Romanow: Wonderful whites challenge the venerated reds

One of the peculiarities of the wine market at the moment is the undue veneration of red at the expense of white wines. Where a $100 Californian Cabernet is looked upon fondly in some circles as a “starter wine,” a Grgich Chardonnay, which is easily one of the finest wines in the world, is available for a mere $70 or so in Canada, and his Cabernet from the same year costs $100 or more. (I’ve seen last year’s vintage for more than $200.)